Tired of making multiple trips back to your house to swap eyepieces during observation sessions? A DIY eyepiece tray is the perfect solution to keep your eyepieces organized, accessible, and protected from dew.
Building your own eyepiece tray is surprisingly simple and can be completed in a weekend with basic tools. Based on my experience helping dozens of astronomers set up their observation stations, a well-built tray costs just $15-45 in materials but saves countless frustrations during viewing sessions.
This guide will walk you through everything from basic design to advanced heated options, with specific measurements and troubleshooting tips from real-world users.
Whether you have a CI-700 mount or a standard tripod spreader, you’ll learn how to create a custom solution that fits your specific telescope setup and observing habits.
Understanding Eyepiece Trays and Mount Types
An eyepiece tray is a platform that holds multiple telescope eyepieces during observation sessions, making it easy to swap between different magnifications.
It attaches to the telescope tripod mount or replaces the standard spreader bar, providing organized storage for eyepieces within easy reach. This prevents eyepieces from rolling away, organizes them for quick access, and can help with telescope stability.
Tripod Spreader: The central bar that connects the three tripod legs, often featuring built-in eyepiece holders on commercial models.
There are two main mounting approaches: replacement trays that sit above or below the spreader bar, and add-on trays that attach to the tripod legs. The choice depends on your telescope model and personal preference.
When working with telescope mounts, consider that some mounts like the Meade 8800 have specific attachment points, while others require custom fabrication.
Materials and Tools Required
The beauty of DIY eyepiece trays is their flexibility in materials. Based on forum feedback from users across different climates, I’ve compiled the most durable and cost-effective options.
Material Options
| Material | Cost | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Popular/Wood | $15-25 | Medium | Beginners, dry climates |
| Aluminum | $25-45 | High | Humid areas, travel |
| Acrylic | $20-35 | Medium | Clear visibility needs |
| Masonite | $10-15 | Low | Temporary/prototyping |
Essential Tools
- Drill with various bits: For creating eyepiece holes (1.25″ and 2″ sizes)
- Saw (hand or power): Cutting your chosen material to size
- Measuring tape and compass: Precise measurements and circular layouts
- Sander: Finishing edges and surfaces
- Carpenter’s level: Ensuring flat, even construction
⏰ Time Saver: If you don’t have a drill, many hardware stores offer drilling services for a small fee when you purchase materials.
For those on a budget, consider using scrap wood or even thick plastic cutting boards. The key is ensuring your material is at least 0.5 inches thick for stability.
Design and Measurement Planning
Proper planning is crucial for a functional eyepiece tray. Based on my experience with different telescope setups, here’s how to get your measurements right the first time.
Measuring Your Tripod
- Measure the spread between tripod legs: This determines your maximum tray diameter
- Check the spreader bar height: Ensure your tray won’t interfere with leg movement
- Verify attachment points: Note any existing holes or mounting brackets
- Account for leg clearance: Leave space for legs to fold/unfold
Layout Considerations
For 1.25-inch eyepieces, drill holes at least 1.5 inches in diameter (1/16 to 1/8 inch extra for easy insertion). For 2-inch eyepieces, use 2.125-inch holes.
Quick Summary: Standard 8×8 inch tray holds 4-5 1.25″ eyepieces or 3-4 2″ eyepieces with adequate spacing.
Design Options
Circular trays work best for most tripods and provide even weight distribution. However, triangular designs can offer more efficient space utilization and easier access to corner-mounted eyepieces.
When planning your layout, consider organizing eyepieces by focal length for quick identification. Many astronomers place shorter focal lengths (higher magnification) on one side and longer focal lengths on the other.
Step-by-Step Construction Guide
Follow these detailed steps to build your eyepiece tray. I’ve included common mistakes and tips based on real user experiences from astronomy forums.
Step 1: Material Preparation
Cut your chosen material to the desired size. For most tripods, an 8×8 inch square or 10-inch diameter circle works well. Sand all edges smooth to prevent splinters and create a professional finish.
Common mistake: Cutting material too thin. Users in Florida report that trays thinner than 0.5 inches can crack when tightening tripod bolts.
Step 2: Mark Hole Positions
Using a compass and ruler, mark your eyepiece hole positions. Space holes at least 2 inches apart to accommodate eyepiece barrels and prevent interference.
For circular trays, start with the center hole (if your spreader bar allows) and work outward in concentric circles. For rectangular layouts, create a grid pattern with 2-3 inch spacing.
Step 3: Drill Eyepiece Holes
Using a hole saw or spade bit, drill your marked holes. Drill slowly and steadily to prevent splintering, especially with wood materials.
Pro tip: Place scrap wood under your material when drilling to prevent tear-out on the bottom surface. This is especially important for softer woods like popular or pine.
Step 4: Create Anti-Rotation Features
Many users report trays spinning on tripod mounts. To prevent this, either:
- Carve small notches that align with tripod bolts
- Add rubber pads on the bottom surface
- Include a center hole that fits over the spreader bar
Step 5: Test Fit and Adjust
Test your tray on the tripod before final finishing. Ensure all legs can extend and retract without interference. Make any necessary adjustments to hole sizes or placement.
Step 6: Final Sanding
Sand all surfaces, including hole interiors, with progressively finer grit sandpaper. This prevents burrs that could scratch your eyepieces.
✅ Pro Tip: Wrap sandpaper around a small dowel or rod to smooth the inside of eyepiece holes for easy insertion and removal.
Finishing and Weather Protection
Proper finishing extends your tray’s life significantly, especially in humid climates. Users in Connecticut report untreated wood trays warping within weeks of use.
For Wood Trays
- Marine varnish: Best for humid environments (3-4 coats)
- Polycrylic finish: Quick drying, minimal odor
- Watertight sealant: Essential for outdoor use
For Metal Trays
- Rubber coating: Prevents scratches and provides grip
- Clear enamel: Protects against corrosion
- Silicon caulk edges: Seals against moisture infiltration
Apply at least two coats of your chosen finish, allowing adequate drying time between coats. Sand lightly between coats for best results.
Advanced Variations and Upgrades
Once you’ve mastered the basic design, consider these enhancements based on successful user implementations.
Heated Tray System
Dew is the enemy of astronomers, especially in coastal areas. Users in Tampa report eyepieces dewing within 20 minutes in summer conditions.
To create a heated tray:
- Materials needed: 12V heating foil, thermostat controller, power source, aluminum foil tape
- Installation: Attach heating foil to tray bottom using aluminum tape
- Power options: 12V battery pack or telescope power supply
- Temperature control: Set to 5-10°F above ambient temperature
“My heated tray system cost $35 to build but has saved hundreds of dollars in dew-related eyepiece damage over three years of use.”
– Experienced amateur astronomer, SE Michigan
Portable/Collapsible Designs
For travel astronomers, consider hinged designs or foldable layouts. Users in California report successfully using interlocking panels that assemble on-site.
3D Printed Options
For those with access to 3D printers, customizable designs offer precise fits for specific eyepiece collections. Print using PETG or ABS for outdoor durability.
Troubleshooting and Pro Tips
Based on real experiences from astronomy communities, here are solutions to common problems.
Common Issues and Solutions
Problem: Tray spins on tripod mount
Solution: Add anti-rotation notches or rubber pads on the bottom surface
Problem: Eyepieces too tight in holes
Solution: Enlarge holes slightly using sandpaper wrapped around a dowel
Problem: Wood warping in humid conditions
Solution: Apply additional waterproof sealant or switch to aluminum
Problem: Telescope instability with tray attached
Solution: Ensure tray is centered and balanced; remove excess weight
⚠️ Important: Always test your tray with the telescope fully assembled before using it in the field. A loose tray can cause serious damage to your equipment.
Pro Tips from Experienced Users
- Add small LED lights powered by coin batteries for dark conditions
- Include a small compartment for lens caps and tools
- Consider adding handles for easier transport
- Mark eyepiece positions with paint or engraving for quick identification
Final Recommendations
Building your own eyepiece tray is a rewarding project that significantly enhances your observing experience. Based on testing dozens of designs and gathering feedback from astronomers worldwide, here are my final recommendations.
Best Overall: An 8-inch wooden tray with marine varnish finish. This design offers the best balance of cost, durability, and ease of construction for most users.
Best for Humid Climates: Aluminum tray with rubber coating and integrated heating system. The extra investment pays for itself in preventing dew damage.
Best for Travel: Collapsible design using lightweight materials and quick-release mounting. Perfect for astronomy outreach and star parties.
Remember that the perfect eyepiece tray is the one that matches your specific observing needs, climate conditions, and equipment setup. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different designs and materials until you find what works best for you.
Happy building, and clear skies!